Palermo, Sicilia - Italy

If I told me in March that I’d be in Italy in August, I’d tell myself that I was seriously deranged. But here I am...in SICILY!!!

I loved Sicily because it was the exact opposite of what I find in Berlin: delicious fresh food (a different breed of carbs), friendly strangers, bars with patios that spill out onto the street late into the night, and people who are eager to share their culture. Audrey and I decided to split out trip into two destinations: Palermo and Catania.

Palermo was definitely my vibes (and Catania was more Audrey's tune). I did not research Sicily as much as I should have but one thing was immediately clear: Sicilians fully embrace all references to The Godfather and mafia culture. The Palermo vs. Catania rivalry made me homesick for Boston vs. New York quarrels but both cities have enough character to hold their own in a heated debate (complete with lots of hand motions).

Palermo is Sicily's biggest city nestled in a northern bay. It has a complex history and varied architecture since it changed hands between the Phoenicians, Greeks, Arabs, and Romans. A perfect example of this is the Church of San Cataldo: an Arabic-style Norman church built in 1154 with mosaic floors & 3 red domes built in the classic Arab style.

EAT

• Altri Tempi (Via Sammartino, 65, 90141 Palermo PA, Italy) - I had my first meal in Palermo here and it did not dissapoint. The bolegnese (pictures below) was to. die. for. It came with peach sangria and a bowl of cheese to ensure deliciousness in every bite. The menu is in Sicilian, not Italian so be prepared to ask for the English menu.

• Bottigliera del Massimo (Via Salvatore Spinuzza, 59, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy) - Audrey and I watched a game of the NBA finals while enjoying a local red wine here. Good plaza vibes outside of the hectic downtown.

• Mercato del Capo (Via Cappuccinelle, 90138 Palermo PA, Italy)

• Sfrigola (Corso Calatafimi, 11, 90129 Palermo PA, Italy)

• Pasticceria Costa (Via Maqueda, 174, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy) - Sicily is known for cannoli (hi, Boston!) and cassata (cakes made to look like the breasts of Saint Agatha).

• Touring Bar (Via Lincoln, 15, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy) - worth venturing out to for the arancini!

• A’Cala (Via Cala, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy) - fancy bar on the water, great to watch sunset at

• Trattoria Trapani (P.za Giulio Cesare, 16, 90127 Palermo PA, Italy) - when the waiter asks you if you would like 750ml or 1L of wine, you go for the 1L for €8 deal and don't look back.

• Bistrot Cuor di Caffè (Via Cavour, 107, 90139 Palermo PA, Italy)

SEE

• Fontana Pretoria (Piazza Pretoria, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy) The fountain was built by Francesco Camilliani in the city of Florence in 1554, but was transferred in Palermo in 1574.) The nuns looking out from the nunnery called the plaza the fountain is in the "Piazza della Vergogna" or the "Plaza of Shame" because of all the nude statues.

• Mercato Bellaro (Via Ballaro, 1, 90134 Palermo PA, Italy) - We bought fresh fruit from this market for breakfast each morning.

• Quattro Canti (Via Vittorio Emanuele, 80146 Palermo PA, Italy) - a Baroque square with fountains with statues of the four seasons. Sicily loves Carlos X (he has a statue on one of the corners and a statue down the street) and it made me think of Palacio Carlos X in Granada.

• Cattedrale di Palermo (Via Vittorio Emanuele, 90134 Palermo PA, Italy)

• The Church of San Cataldo (Piazza Bellini, 1, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy)

DO

• Walk the Foro Italico at sunset

• Via Sant’Anna / Vucciria (Piazza Caracciolo, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy) - great place to go out, dance, listen to music, meet people, etc.

• Shop on Vittorio Emanuele - give me all the Italian lemon-adorned ceramics

• Mondello Beach

Audrey and I spent Saturday at Mondello Beach. It was gorgeous - we ended up renting chairs and an umbrella at a beach club (€25 for two people) and spent the day running in and out of the Mediterranean. The water was perfectly cool and clear. Even the coconut peddlers calling out "coco!!!" every few minutes couldn't ruin how relaxing this day was.

Now that Audrey and I have travelled a fair amount in 2020, we'd like to share our top travel tips that you won't hear from anyone else:

• RyanAir is not for trips longer than 3 days because all you will be able to bring is your high school backpack that is literally ripping at the seams and you won't be able to buy any souvenirs. Trips longer than three day trips call for a real airline that allows you to bring more than a bag of popcorn on board.

• Don’t wait until three days before your trip to book an Airbnb. Would not recommend. You will probably end up sleeping in a room with no AC when it is 100°F+ in Southern Sicily.

BONUS TIP: When the bus arrives 40 mins after it’s scheduled to arrive...get gelato. That’s amore.